Bold, ethnic-inspired prints that meld seamlessly with refined silhouettes and tailored sheath dresses — it's how Oscar de la Renta sees the world this Fall. A meeting of striking patterns and patchwork on full-length coats and shorter jackets, then Oscar's laydylike pieces — a tweed skirt suit, a metallic pencil. Nearly every look gets a dose of Fall fur in a cozy snood or hat, adding luxury to the sophisticated looks. Through the streamlined silhouettes, the classic construction, there's the assurance that these Oscar pieces — like any of the designer's collections — won't lose their luxe after time; you could see yourself in that same metallic tweed coat running about town now, then years from now. Watch the full runway on FabSugarTV.
Marios Schwab's third collection for Halston was a direct reference to the '70s. "The Halston girl is a temptress," said Schwab, who referenced Lauren Hutton's character in American Gigolo as his inspiration. The presentation, which took place last night at Cedar Lake, had models set up on pedestals wearing an array of gowns and dresses fitting for a glamorous party at Studio 54. Fluid Grecian-inspired chiffon gowns, pleated and draped cocktail dresses, and even sequined glow-in-the-dark creations — the lights dimmed down every 10 minutes to show off the display — were all present and dipped in warm and cool neutral hues. However, it was Schwab's daywear selection that really stood out amongst the crowd, most notably, a knotted shirtdress made in supple brown leather. Schwab has to head back to London to present his namesake collection, but not before indulging in a "a couple of cocktails" to celebrate the Halston collection. And what exactly will he be drinking to toast the night? "I like the mixed berry kind," said Schwab.
- Trends: '70s glamour.
- Colours: White, melon green, olive, and brown.
- Key Looks: Knotted brown leather shirtdress.
- Accessories: Drop-front booties, paneled sandals.
- Who Would Wear It: The ultimate Studio 54 gal.
For Autumn, Kate and Laura Mulleavy fuse the world of the urban and the prairie innocent. It's equal parts quirky and confident and spills out with bold details, like geometric print and dramatic architectural necklines. Then it counters with softer, draped full-length dresses and a lighter, neutral palette. The cut and finish to jumpsuits, pants, tops, and double-collared dresses are sharp and edgy, modern, but still feminine. We'd picture these pieces going to a gallery opening, finding their way in the urban world with a country aesthetic and artistic flair.
- Trends: Double collars, architectural necklines, geometric print, sheer layering, calf-length skirts.
- Colours: Light blues, creamy neutrals, navy, and bold print.
- Key Looks: A red metallic calf-length skirt and fitted jacket on Lindsey Wixson; a sculptural polka-dot print jumpsuit.
- Accessories: Black platform boots, some echoing the collection's bold prints.
- Who Would Wear It: The artsy femme, with equal parts quirk and sophistication.
For the girl who craves Marc in an easy-to-wear way, these are the Fall looks she's been waiting for. There are the overt retro overtones, toned down and turned up where they need to be: sunnies are majorly round and oversized to complete the looks that range from more demure tie-neck blouses paired with calf-length skirts to playful printed jumpsuits. To appeal to the modern sensibility, Marc crafts animal prints, literally — metallic big-cat prints on skirts and blazers and a ladylike leopard-print on a dress and skirt that we're already coveting, then finishes looks with shearling-lined and lace-up boots. It's a collection that revisits the '70s, delivering only the best elements in a wearable reinterpretation for the modern girl with an easy aesthetic.
- Trends: Earth tones, calf-length skirts, tie-neck blouses and dresses, fur, '70s.
- Colours: Forest green, rust, gold, earth tones.
- Key Looks: Belted full-length fur coat topped with a floppy fedora; a rainbow-dotted sheer dress.
- Accessories: Lace-up and shearling-lined booties, floppy hats; round, oversize sunnies.
- Who Would Wear It: The easy-chic chick with a taste for retro-cool.
Monique Lhuillier's runway proceeds like a fantastic call to femininity. Bow-tied belts cinch dresses perfectly at the waist, echoing that kind of Old Hollywood glam in the retro-styled hair and sultry cat-eyes. Then, a feather-trimmed skirt tops a pair of skinny black trousers and a slim blazer; shoulder embellishments on a sparkly black sheath, and lace-up heels — details that work to counter the call to vintage with the more modern femme, while a palette of black lace, red, and leopard-print further that call to classic femininity in the most glamorous way.
- Trends: Sheer and lace detailing, leopard-print, textured gowns, sweetheart necklines, bows.
- Colors: Black, red, leopard.
- Key Looks: A bow-tied blazer and feathered skirt layered over pants; a textured rosette and sequined cocktail dress in red.
- Accessories: Ballet-inspired, lace-up heels, bow-tied ribbon belts, and dotted, sheer black tights.
- Who Would Wear It: Carey Mulligan; the modern femme with an affinity for vintage glamour.
Lights, camera, action: Diane von Furstenberg put on a major show last night — attended by celebs like Fergie, Molly Sims, and Maggie Q. With American legends as her inspiration point, the designer dreamed up an eccentric and eclectic array of colorful liquid sequin gowns, graphic gaucho wraps, pajama suits, leather jackets, along with her signature print dresses. High slits, an overarching theme thus far during Fashion Week, also made its way on the runway in addition to sleek silk tunic dresses. Diane von Furstenberg's throwback references, like '70s-inspired pleated dresses, and modern, via a cropped star-embellished cropped jacket, were seamlessly intertwined, creating a covetable collection for every girl looking to be an American legend.
Donna Karan dreamed up a collection fitting for the city girl. True to her street aesthetic, the collection, seen earlier today in Chelsea in a brick-covered venue, was made for stomping the pavement and turning heads. Inspired by modernists in New York City, Karan envisioned fuzzy angora sweaters — made in bright hues and bold stripe patterns — houndstooth suits and skirts, wide-leg trousers, skinny pencil pants, and tailored coats. It was the details, like a recurring tux stripe detail or contrast colour inserts, which gave the collection a smart shot of modernity, youth, and a slight nod to the ‘70s. Bright shots of colour were tempered with neutral hues emoting a pop of punch and fun. Karan also sent down a number of sleek three-quarter length coats embellished with leather sleeve accents, knit and houndstooth padded jackets, which was her remixed take on the classic puff coat, along with the standout silhouette of the show: a crisp tailored wool cape.
- Trends: Fuzzy sweaters, tailored capes, contrast trim.
- Colours: Red, pink, henna, black, cream, navy, grey.
- Key Looks: Capes jackets, angora sweaters, houndstooth suit.
- Accessories: Ankle-braced Mary-Janes, cap-tie booties, mini-bags with leather tassels.
- Who Would Wear It: Stylefiles on the go, city slickers.
Prabal’s show began with Karlie Kloss in a luscious, red, off-the-shoulder dress looking like she had stepped straight off the cover of a Harlequin romance novel, minus Fabio. In the background, a sultry version of Robert Palmer's "Addicted to Love" played, setting the stage for a super flirty, kitschy, and dramatic show that revolved around the theme of love. There were Victorian references in high-necked lace tops with fluttery bell sleeves, '80s moments with ombré furs and punked out hair, and just plain beauty with the lace details and empire-meets-peplum gowns. It was a plea for unadulterated romance, provocative and perhaps a bit naughty. The stylish crowd, among them J.Crew's Jenna Lyons, Garance Doré, Emmanuelle Alt and actress Jessica Chastain, seemed to love it, as they erupted in cheers at the finale, a rarity in fashion shows.
- Trends: Bandage details, lace, Victorian, '80s, backless coats, lace print.
- Colours: Red, ombré, pink.
- Key Looks: A lace-paneled coat, Karlie's red gown.
- Accessories: Nicholas Kirkwood for Prabal shoes, black leather gloves.
- Who Would Wear It: Ladies looking to make a flirty statement on the red carpet or at events.